How To Build an Evangelistic Bible Quiz Booth
(to reach lost souls)
See also, Fair question examples
True Bible Quiz booth Stories

1. Tent
2. Signs
3. Quiz board
4. flyers to hand out
5. a willing congregation.
6. Duct tape. (Thanks to the Red-Green show, who learned the virtues of Duct tape from me and made a great TV show out of it! The Red-Green show started in Hamilton! Maybe Red-Green did our Bible quiz one summer long ago and thought it would make a great idea for a TV show?)

Then you can buy a steel "u-clamp" and bend it to fasten the tent leg to the button board.

1. Buy two 3/4 inch x 12 foot lengths of rebar. These are the vertical supports for the sign. But an 18 inch long wood auger drill that is 7/8 inch in diameter. You may need to grind the end down so that it will fit in your cordless 3/8 inch drill. Grind it down with a continuous slow spinning motion so it remains circular, otherwise it will wobble when you actually drill with it. You then drill an 18 inch pilot hole into which the 3/4 inch rebars will fit into. Pictured below is the drill we use for the rebar for the sign. It is a pilot hole that the rebar just dropped down into for support. But you still need front and back support ropes for each side!



2. Make sure you buy four 1/2 inch steel "rebar" stakes that are at least 2 feet long. Drive them into the ground with a large mallet Buy 2 packages of 50 foot soft white nylon packing rope. Fold the rope in half and tie the half way point at the top of the 12 foot rebar. This rope is your front and rear "guy wires". On the front wires hammer a 1/2 inch x 2 foot rebar into the ground, tie the rope and put a double sided "bible quiz" sign on top. Make sure you duck tape the top sharp side of the rebar before you attach this small sign. Pictured below is a 1/2 x 2 foot rebar about 10 feet out in front of the tent. This is the support for the front guy wire for the large over head sign.



After duck taping the top of the rebar like a hockey stick but end so no one can impale themselves by falling on it, put a "bible quiz" sign on the rebar. This sign is two pieces of "plastic corrugated cardboard". Tape the sides together and put the rebar inside or between the two signs. More tape on the top holds the sign on the rebar. Then you can tie the sign rope to the bottom for wind support.

 

3. Buy two 2 inch x 2 inch x12 foot AND two 2x2 x 2 foot spruce lumber. Take the two 2 foot peices and attach them to the top of the 3/4 inch x 12 foot rebar using automotive "U-bolts". The round portion of the u-bolt is next to the rebar and the flat portion is against the wood. Tighten the two bolts down and use duck tape to protect the sharp edges from cutting the vinyl sign. (You never need to remove the duct tape wrapped over the u-bolts.)
4. At the top and bottom of the 2 foot pieces of wood, attach 4 "L-brackets" that are about 4 inches long. Use 1 inch X10 Robertson pan head wood screws to fasten them permanently to the 2 foot lumber. Use these screws to also attach the 2x2x12 foot lumber to the other side of the L-bracket to complete the square wooden frame on the 12 foot vertical rebar supports. Here is a close up of the corner assembly. Permanently duct tape the U-bolts after they are tightened with a wrench.



This makes the wooden frame that you fasten the vinyl sign to with a T-50 or T-18 staple gun as this child below is doing.



Staple the banner around the back of the wooden frame and drop into place! (Remember the two holes you drilled with th 7/8 inch x 18 inches auger into the ground?



5. When you are done the sign support you will have only two different components (four pieces): Two 12 foot rebars with 2 foot wood attached by U-bolts to the rebar and the L-brackets attached to the 2 foot lumber, with the rope. (these remain permanent units that you never take apart) AND Two 2x2x12 foot pieces of lumber. When you unload the truck, all you need is 8 screws to attach the 12 foot lumber to L-brackets on the 2 foot lumber! Pictured below are the components that never need to be taken apart. To build the sign support simply use 2 screws for each corner!

1. Substitute the 12 rebars with two 1/2 inch x 10 foot lengths of standard steel electrical conduit. Instead of using "u-bolts" to attach the 2 foot lumber to the conduit, simply drill two holes through the middle of each of the round conduits and use a two 2 1/2 inch bolts for each conduit. The rope, the L-brackets and the 12 foot lumber is the same. When the fair is on the street, I will tie the ropes up to 50 feet away to a tree or building for support.



Here is a close up of one pole attached to the block and the other laying beside it. The two twelve foot by 2x2 spruce horizontal supports attach to the steel supports exactly the same way as pictured above when the sign it on ground, not concrete. The finished pole at the right bottom, laying on the ground is a complete unit that never needs to be taken apart! All you need is 2 screws per corner to attach the 2x2x12 to the L-clamp.



2. You cannot drill a hole in the road so instead, buy two concrete cinder blocks. Buy 6 standard U-brackets that mate with the 1/2 inch conduit. Attach three U-brackets to each cinder block by using a concrete drill to create pilot holes for the U-brackets to attach to. Make sure you buy bolds that are at least 3 inches long so you can loosen and tighten them to the conduit without the nuts falling off. Buying long bolts that run right through the block make assembly easy! Just slide the pole into the three u-clamps and tighten!



3. When you are done, you have only 3 different components (6 pieces): two cinderblocks that each have 3 U-clamps permanently attached. You also have the 2 conduits with the rope and 2 foot lumber and the 2 L-brackets. Plus the two 12 foot lumber pieces.
4. Here is what the booth looks like on a roadway or concrete surface. Pictured below is the booth set up inside a hockey arena on a concrete pad, normally ice. You can see the cinder blocks work quite well! We did not use any supporting guy wires in the indoor arena because wind was not a factor!

1. The quiz board is actually two separate units. Each unit is 2 x 6 feet in size. They are fastened together with a clasp and screws.



2. Buy a 4 X 8 chunk of high gloss white shower board from a specialty plywood supply store. This stuff can be used as a white board with dry erasable markers. Cut out two 2x6 foot pieces.
3. Build a slanted frame out of 3/4 inch x plywood for the white top to rest upon.
4. Use a glue stick and paste a copy of the questions on the white board exactly where they will end up going. Mark out with dry erasable markers on the white board, where the buttons will go and the lights above each question pages.
5. Buy a 12 volt 7 AH dry cell rechargeable battery. (the same ones that are in every home or business alarm system box in the basement)
6. Buy the 20 lights and corresponding sockets from radio shack. Use 12 volt incandescent. Buy two cans of spray paint. Spray 10 with florescent green and 10 with florescent red. The red are the "wrong answer" and the greed are the "right answer" lights.
7. Make the templates like you see below and glue them to the board. Pre-drill the holes for the two light bulbs so when they are screwed into the socked the white board holds them in place. Here are four different examples of templates. When any button is pushed, either the green or red light will come on in side this template! Just use a glue stick.



8. Buy 50 red buttons. These are momentary contact mini buttons.($1 each). Find a drill that is exactly the right size for the button to push up through the white board from below and be fastened with the nut and washer that comes with each switch. Pre-mark the holes with a dry erasable marker. Make sure the questions are glued on first so you drill the holes exactly where they need to be.
9. Get a soldering gun and use light gauge wire. (AWG 22) I use standard telephone and strip off the outer casing so I get 4 different wires. Each wire then can be used individually. Soldier 8 inch leads onto the momentary contact buttons.
10. Use "b-connectors" or "chicklets" to make connections. (put the two or more wires in and squash with pliers.)
11. All the electric circuits are simple "series". The battery positive goes to one of the two 8 inch switch wires, which when pressed, the other switch wire sends power to one of the light leads, then the other light lead is wired back to the battery negative. It is best if you find someone in the congregation who has had some electrical experience to do the wiring. But in fact, anyone can do it!
12. Wire up the two button boards in parallel to one battery.
13. When all is working ok, remove the 8 paper questions off the two boards and use water to wash it down. After drying, print a colour set and use a glue stick to fasten the final questions to the board. I generally do this after the booth is set up.

For true or false questions: you have a single theme like: True for false: Is it sin? Then you have 10 buttons. Each question is either true for false. If true, the green light turns on. If false, the red light turns on. Below is the "identify the sin" question that was very powerful.

Time line questions: The time line uses smaller lights and I start by printing the time line and taping it to a piece of plywood and drilling the holes right through the paper. Then each button lights up a single light on the time line. This question has 10 buttons. When each button is pushed, it lights up a different light drilled into the time line. You can see the "first pope" button is pushed and 606 AD lights up on the time line. I use a smaller 12 volt light that comes with two 6 inch leads. The glass in the bulb is less than 1/4 inch in diameter. Chose a drill size that allows the bulb to slide into place then silicone them into place. Make sure the bulb is flush to the 1/2 inch plywood because people will push the bulbs and break them.

How to be saved conversion examples questions: This is a little more complex to build, because one button may turn on "believe or repentance or confession or baptism" or one button may turn on "believe AND baptism" or "believe AND repent AND baptism".

Buy a 40 foot x 5 foot chunk of good quality non-cotton cloth. Fold it in half and staple the folded edge up against the top of the white board. To remove, just grab the cloth and yank!

Use either 2 white liquid gas lanterns at the top inside peak of the tent or two twin halogen lights on contractor tripods (500 watt bulbs in each light.) Point one at the sign and the other at the roof inside the tent.

Home Depot sells these. Make sure you buy the tallest and largest one they sell. (7 feet hight)

Below is one of our lady members at night standing behind the button board. You can see there is lots of light.

Flyers to hand out:

See also flyer examples.

Running the booth:

A willing congregation:

Notice this teen has a clip board, flyer and pen in hand. She will ask the police officer if he is interested in Bible study. If he says yes, she will hand him the clip board and ask him to fill out a coupon with his name address and phone number. She keeps it and hands him a second one to keep.

All of the children in the congregation help "man" the booth. If they cannot read, they can hand out flyers. This child is a good reader and is actually reading the questions for the adult who cannot read! She asks him, "Is this true or false"? After he gives his answer, she would push the button for him and he would see from which light turned on, if he was right or wrong.

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